On the “road” for NWP

Saturday, August 24
Always consistent weather.
Do-it-yourself before the departure since the wind is South coming in our face for still a few hours.
We put Teflon on the fitting that leaks, tests are ok. Now we only have to do a real test.

Barometer 1007 mooring 2.9 m in the outdoor sounder, the interior one is sulking since yesterday!

Thursday, August 22
Woke up at 3:00 am due to the lack of wind and daylight
03:25 engine, a few drops of rain.
03:48 hit a rock at 2.7m, keel up for 10 seconds
04:00 – 04:35 Fred autopilot in FU mode, Ok. Sent the sails, we take the helm out well dressed 7 ° C not even cold
05:00 MS at 1 reef + Genoa, Marie at the helm with crosswind 90 ° – 80 °, Cog 235 ° Speed 7.4 kts
06:00 Fred, change of Cape for Victoria Island instead of Jenny Lind because we do not want to finish with 25/30 Kts of wind and more in the tight meadow
10:20 Genoa with 1 reef, 22Kts of apparent wind at 85 ° Cog 245 ° Cape at 260 ° on outside compass
11:05 we take two reefs in the MS Wind 25Kts mini, Speed 7.5 Kts
Forestay sail replace the genoa because it is not efficient and looks like a big bag with 2reefs
Harry at the helm winds up to furl up: easy … barometer 1000
12:00 Fred, the wind weakens the helm is very soft, we put the genoa but too late … the wind goes up, we rolled up.
Good lunch with the remains of artic char and rice with asparagus (the least dangerous to cook at this pace)
13:00 barometer 997 Marie struggles a bit at the helm but Ok even after a first wave (photo!) Trying to wet her. Then wave 2: well soaked but Fredo is not there for the photo …
15:00 change of watch, rolled staysail set the genoa 2 reefs, the speed goes back to 7.5Kts
15:10 engine; it is packed for entry into the bay with 9 – 6 m of water and less. Ascent of the keel 20”
The water depth remains stable at 6.3m 6.6m, points are noted on the map for the exit
16:53 Mooring at the bottom of the bay well sheltered by the lowlands in 3.50m of water. It looks very similar to this morning, however, we traveled 85.7 Nm with 10h10 by sail and passed the latitude 100 ° W
Temperature remained correct 9 ° C outside, 17 ° C inside on arrival with 1 hour of engine
Taylor Island – East Victoria Island 69 ° 07.1 N – 101 ° 39.1W
wind S SE 15Kts the anchor is twisted (since? Yesterday maybe?) in 3.30m.
Just on time to have a snack
Friday 23 August
we have made good progress until today, but at the end of the week we would have preferred a little quieter
long day of waiting in a gale of westerly wind
we put ourselves (Fred and Harry) at the electrical connection of the Eletra Scan, it even occupies the girls who have to move everything to let the tools, electrical wires and other under the beds, the table …
the barometer goes back up at last! but the wind is more northerly than expected and the waves begin to agitate us, causing the keel to touch a misplaced pebble
bursts still at 38 – 40 kts, stronger than the weather forecast… it must be said that the barometer goes up a faster than it came down then it’s normal that the wind is stronger
We won’t be able to go for photos on the ground and on top of that it’s raining!
The logbook comes down to:
01:30 barometer 992
03:30 barometer 993 wind turned W
07:00 barometer 994
10:00 passage of a wet squall the wind goes up to 30 knots the ñooring is Ok
preparation of pasta for pizza and bread while we take out the file for the assembly of the Electro scan and we dismantle the bathroom before to pass the electric wires, to make the holes adhoc …
16:50 barometer 991 40 Kts of wind, rain, pebble noise not far from the keelso we lift it up again 25 ”
18:15 second bong, lift up keel 20 ” more.
18:30 barometer 995, white geese peck on the beach
18:40 the electrical cables are in place, we still have to stick and seal the pipes before the test!
Tests to clean water, everything looks good, small leak on the case, we’ll see this tomorrow or later.
20:30 it’s still time of the meal
Take or not a new weather forecast? Patience for the moment the Grib file is consistent
 
 
Wednesday, August 21
Since 11pm it is almost dark (sun setting around 9:30 pm)
Led lights test in order to see if they can illuminate the sea but the cigarette lighter plug has a too weak fuse which don’t allow to it switch on… and the day is rising already
02:40 mooring 69 ° 35.2N 98 ° 19.5W Bay South of Cape Jane Franklin 9m of water and stony bottom.
we’ll see tomorrow if we can go closer
09:50 barometer at 1018, South wind 13 knots, suddenly the roof is dry and temperature outside is 9.9ºC for 17 ° inside and water at 8.7 ° C
Gray sky but sun manages to shine a bit
Flat earth, no hills or mountains, this confirms the Flat Earth Theory: we reach the end of the end.
Resting day
Fishing net ready and small stroll onshore for bird pictures.
Unidentified ducks, diving from the air, an Arctic jaeger passing by, snow geese with their babies, many sandpipers (purple).
Resting…well… almost. We still need to assemble the “Electra San” in anticipation of the USA
Barometer at 1015 wind 15 kts at 240 °
Picking up the fishing net washed ashore without anything but running water coming from the land being brackish … well, we’ll try again near the rivers .
 
Tuesday, August 20
6am Temperature 2,2 ° C, water 1,60 ° C
The fishing net was pushed by the wind towards the beach but we can get it up rather quickly
Once stranded, we find an arctic char in the net: What a nice surprise of 4.8 kg
06:20 engine on, current in the channel with a speed of 8,8 Kts
Heading to King William Island passing Larsen Sound, long route but it should allow us to be in open water within 2 days and move to Cambridge Bay quickly
Downloading yesterday ice map takes 2h … the iridium connects then shut down without loading, sending 1 e-mail but not taking the time to receive …
At last we manage to have it and we confirm the route by the most direct path through Victoria Sound
07:00 Marie steer from inside where it is warmer
08:20 Fred une sut autopilot “boring FU mode” to adjust every 10 sec
09:00 Harry steer to Cape 247 °C, 5
10:00 Frédo idem
11:00 Marie and Frédo with binoculars on the pilot house
11:20 position 70 ° 49’9”N – 97 ° 3’35”W entry into the pack ice (from 1 to 3/10)
12:00 Fred, helped by Fredo with binoculars then he continues alone
70 ° 46’54”N – 97 ° 07’54 ” pack ice with channels (from 4 to 6/10)
12:50 Harry 70 ° 43,028 N – 97 ° 12.98W ice sheet spacing (from 1 to 3/10)
14:00 Fred 70 ° 37,51N – 97 ° 21,41W free sea
No seals nor bears, walruses or other mammals, some fast birds non-identified (it’s not terns)
Great sun and stable barometer 1025
We try to unfurl genoa but the wind is running from behind not strong enough with less than 5kts, we must repack
We do our 1-hour watch one after another, It is a little bit long when there is nothing to avoid or photograph …
Clarence Island visible although they are super flat at 15 kts
Sea ice on starboard at a few nautical miles as indicated on the ice chart 70 ° 00.9N 98 ° 04.6W
Wind from East rising to 11 kts we put the genoa with Marie, then at 60 ° – 30 ° from the shore we need to furl again.
 
Monday 19
6am nothing in the net, beautiful morning mist.
T ° ext 0°C water at 3,5 ° C. 6:35am engine
While sailing away from the coast there is a lot of fog but sufficient visibility to steer from inside to stay dry and warm
T ° raise a little but the heated hardly manage to heat the boat at 20 ° C, without sun we easily loose 10ºC
A small attempt to put the genoa, the water and the gas oil of the jerrycans are filling the tank gradually to refuel when it is possible
in the afternoon we need to negotiate a way through the ice pack, Frédo at the helm looks for the passage with the binoculars, it shines oddly … she switch the engine in neutral and says to Marie who came out on this signal: disengagement engine / something to see, please call the 2 men just gone to nap
Tens of seals … hundreds … in the end thousands!!
They get into the water and sometimes swim parallel to the hull, watching what we do
Arrival at anchor after a not too bad Poutine: 1st one ever for Harry
Laying a net in front of a river that comes from a lake where some young geese hide, adults fly away while bawling
Security precautions for bears: we take the rifle, flares and trumpet. Here pepper spray are not enough!
Tasmania Island 71 ° 14.4N 96 ° 30.6W by the Shortland Channel (traveled 84 Nm)
More than 50m depth while 20m only announced on the map then 20/15m in front of the beach without too much ice
Beautiful sunset sky, with an aircraft whose engines are heard after spotting it in the direction of Alaska …
 
Sunday 18 August
6am engine
Incredibly calm sea
Today is a summer day with some ice floes and some bears with their babies
We reroute for the first one who eats a seal on an ice cube at his limit of buoyancy
The second is too far on the more compact pack ice at the east of the Sound
A lot of big seals as well but who put themselves more often out of range of our 600 mm camera zoom
We are steering 1h each, it’s less painful than turning the button of the autopilot in manual
The boat goes practically straight, alone and you can even eat your chocolate mousse with a coffee while steering: what a comfort!
News of the Bering Sea by Muktuk SY, nice summer there too: let’s hope it will last!
A big seal is waiting for the last moment to dive, it’s comprehensible: at the end of the day the air is cool and the water must be too
8:30pm Hurditch Peninsula 72 ° 27.9N 95 ° 07.3W 13m of water some growlers coming from the shore (traveled 76 Nm)
A flat iceberg with square pieces , Mother Earth is such an artist pass by and goes to the beach
Fred has prepared dinner in anticipation … it’s good to finish early
we can put the net, great weather, sun slowly descending to pass the horizon from 11pm to 4am approximately
Footprints of wolf (we guess) on the beach, pretty large tracks with 2 3 visible claws, grouped 2 by 2, he did a round trip
Friday, August 16th
AIS: we cross a MMSI flag Ca 316050000 lives. 12.9Nds East West route (merchant ship?)
00:40 Erebus & Terror Bay Beechey Island 74 ° 42.5N 91 ° 48.1W
It should be our northernmost point this year
25m of chain in 7.7m of calm water
morning walk of All Saints
Great sun, no wind, no noise, stable barometer at 1013 consistent with the Grib file.
Difficult to imagine the wintering and death of the sailors from the Franklin expedition and others whose graves strew the bay.
Reception of ice charts: a free passage is taking shape in the Peel Sound along the island of Somerset. Even Amundsen and Beaufort seem to be clearing.
11:15 engine for the village of Resolute. A bit of starboard wind we roll out the genoa … efficient for 30min then the seals watch us pass by, wondering why we raised the sail apart for making shadow.
Full west road. Arrival in view of Resolute: 5 or 6 planes are taking off and landing …? Friday night the city is emptying? 220 inhabitants!
Mooring in front of the village following the alignments. Water minimum at 8,50m
Resolute City mooring 74 ° 41.4N 94 ° 50.9W, 45 m of chains in 13m (17 m) in the middle of the pack ice that seems very calm
Saturday, August 17
02:20 ice cube brush against the hull, but quietly passes under the full moon clearly visible despite the brightness of the night (the midnight sun has just finished 2 days ago)
08:30 we moor a bit closer to the beach in order to land without being wet by incoming swell and wind 15/20 Kts
quiet city! Some cars and dogs (220 inhabitants still asleep. Yet already a First Air plane that takes off)
Confirmation of the time and opening of the Co-op to a young working employee
He tells us that the store only opens at 1am (and that it is indeed only 8:15) but that we have breakfast or a coffee in the premises from which it comes
the hostess must even be able to call the people of the Mounted Police: RCMP Royal Canadian Mounted Police
Indeed Chantal very cheerful tells us that she will call and that we can wait using the computer connected in the lounge, also giving us the code for the wifi to connect the ipad of Harry and our phones
the mobiles do not take the telephone network of Nunavut but with the WiFi we download the ice charts and communicate quickly with the girls since Loïc must be running on the side of Quebec
2 very friendly policemen arrive after 10 minutes, they replace the customs officers who must be on weekends or nonexistent, and stamp our passports telling us that they are “collectors” because very rare are the boats stopping here
On the other hand, not knowing if there is something to pay or declare more for the rifle of which we have the form of declaration of last year
To have a clear conscience they take a picture of it
we talk for a long moment of their function and trips in sunny countries
Small visit of the village, the door delivery side of the Co-op being open and a young person siding there we ask him confirmation of the opening time and as we tell him that we will be gone to enjoy the wind and the tide he lets us in. A smiling lady lets us buy our “couic couic” cheese, sauce and fries for a homemade Canadian POUTINE
visit of the mini church with its self-service tissue packs (2 to 3 per row ..) no happy sermons or heating broke down?
school big enough with a photo exhibition that we can unfortunately not see through the windows.
We leave again but this time with the sails for the whole navigation from Lancaster Sound to Somerset Island0.
It works well with a small cross swell, wind at 80 ° then 120 °
Simsim does not manage to stir and it’s too complicated in manual mode, so we spend 1 hour each at the helm.
We take off 1 hour on every watches, phones and cameras
Noon: Frédo steer, Cog 195 ° Autopilot says 15 ° Cap Compas ext 145 ° magnetical differences !
1pm Marie Cap145 ° / left eye in the sun
2pm Fred one-handed bar
3pm Harry is in the shade of the Main Sail. We slalom 2 times between ice packs.
The second time we slacken the GV in a hurry and we start to roll the genoa but it’s okay and it’s good to slow down because we have time to see 2 bears on the port board on ice cubes
A bit far for photos but we are not there to do wildlife tourism and we hope to see more … the ice charts is still showing a lot of ice in the Sound for tomorrow and + if affinity
4pm Fredo at the helm and it’s calm so Fred unfurl some genoa
5pm Marie right eye in the sun
6pm Fred RAS
7pm Harry released the second part of the genoa then engine
Entry of the Peel Sound more wind, engine that will heat the interior where the temperature dropped to 14 ° C (4°C ext out, it’s pretty cold with the wind)
11:30pm heading to the anchorage
2 polar bears in sight on Cape Whitehead Point
they disappear … they swim towards the ice, a younger half curious and half fearful gets closer to the biggest iceberg while his mother turns her head in all directions for dangers.
We continue towards the bottom of the bay under the inquisitive eye of big seals. Less than 10m deep and then from the north in the cape we find 24 to 30m. Anchoring behind a small stony spur bleached by seagulls.
23:04 MacClure Bay 73 ° 37.5N 95 ° 39.9W. After a night just rocked by the waves slightly
Awakening under a radiant sun, blue sky without a single cloud, just a little mist along the cliffs in the shade, bands of seals hunting.
Well done to go a bit away from the shore before anchoring, only 6m of water at low tide.
Walk to land to visit the buildings of the former Mounted Police camp and its cemetery with 2 graves.
Anchor climb without too much vase but Fredo cleans the front deck which has not been done for a long time. While Marie steers and Fred cooks lunch. We take our watch where we left them, today it is Marie who is punished for lunch and dinner.
Genoa test late afternoon but not conclusive, too much wind and weak. On the other hand, good current of 1kt going in our way, small waves sometimes destabilizing.
Easy life taking pictures.
Reception of the Resolute ice chart Approaches: there are only green areas. The map of the Queen Maud area is not yet updated but the entrance to the Peel Sound seems to be clearer than Prince Regent for the Bellot Strait.
11pm anchorage at Hobhouse 74 ° 30,2N – 87 ° 01,3W
Narrow entrance, deep bay bottom but better oriented for the wind (gusts of 7 knots)
Arctic anchorage much more enjoyable than the description of the RCC guide
45m of chain in 23m, stern in 15m in front of the cone of the river, in the shade of the setting sun but more quickly in the morning sun.
Thursday 15 August
8am with sunny sun it’s warmer than yesterday evening 5 ° C
We filled our jerrycans of water with the dinghy in the river of the waterfall under the firn, et the west of the bay
Perfect ground for the dinghy that puts its nose on the pebble beach and in which we can leave the jerrycans in which we put the pipe
200L of water, we fill the tank in charge of Gas Oil in order to empty the jerrycans and be able to fill them at the next stop where there will be enough to buy
11am Harry Is the first to take a watch
sailboat in sight, AIS ok after connection disconnection … connection disconnection … but nothing
then MMSI No. and Call Sign OP but not the name of the boat that went back to Blanley Bay
sailing along the cliffs and glaciers of southern Devon
as shown on the ice chart yesterday some ice cubes along the coast from Graham Harbor
pack ice scattered offshore, and occasionally curious seals swimming in herd
we sail through a band of pack ice, not very tight
unsuccessful genoa test and then at the second try we opt for the gennaker
the engine speed of 6.5 Kts falls to 4.2 kts it’s so quiet that we think to switch on the engine again but the thought that every mile earned is 1 liter of Gas Oil saved, we accept to be patient
it will take 4 to 5 hours of additional navigation but we have no hurry
time to do the dishes and write these lines, while Fred prepares a chocolate mousse for St. Mary August 15 because we finished the lemon pie this afternoon … … engine!
anchorage Beechey Island expected at: 00:40 local 04:40 UTC 06:40 Paris
some altocumulus … hiding the sun over Cape Liddon 74 ° 36.7N 91 ° 07W: Gorgeous !!
Tens or hundreds of Fulmars, young Petrels and some black guillemots
 
We give a small maneuver lesson to Marie: essential terms: crank handle – winch – retractor drum/tiller rope – 150 laps on the winch left 📷 – blocker etc.
She furls it in 2 times because we try to leave 1/2 genoa to help the pilot but it’s inefficient, we leave the MS (Main Sail) and go back inside to get warm and only monitor the autopilot that is correct on its own.
a lot of Dovekies (Alle Alle for scientist) but there is not enough light for photos

In order not to make the same watch each day, the one at 1pm tour is abolish.
A bit complicated to understand for Fredo so we do it in an excel table: it is the notorious advantage of a real computer for navigation: we are no longer obliged to juggle between various computers in order to write text, email or use a spreadsheet …

Monday, August 12
03:05am 202 Nm from Upernavik: last mail to JRCC Final Report
Pond Inlet at 190 Nm South East, e-mail to Canadian Coast Guard will await Dundas Harbor in Lancaster
The sun must be back over the horizon because the gray gets clearer but with only 5°C the pictures of Dovekies will wait!

Day2
73 ° 51.9N 070 ° 14W
engine – speed. 5.8 Kts (small current carries us then turn in the wrong way: 4.9Kts … let’s see if it comes from the tide)
Cog 280 ° ± 10 ° + depending on the mood of SimSim our autopilot –
Already 263 Nm traveled
No wind at all – white rainbow in the mist – visibility is a little better so we can stop the radar
Some guillemots in addition to the Ddovekies but too timid for photos
Exterior T °12,5C Marie laid in the sun for 20 minutes reading an African in Greenland
We notified Nordreg Canadian border of our Canadian water entry: 1 year anniversary of our 1st entry into Pond Inlet.
Many messages of support on FB relayed by Océane: it always feel good. Many thanks